Sewing a dress shirt for Iplehouse EID, part two

If you missed the first part of this tutorial, you can find it over here.
As promised, I took another picture of the finished sleeve lap to show how it is constructed. Though mine differs from the pattern, the construction is the same.

Now that that’s out of the way, I hope you’re ready for the hard parts. Picking up where we left off…

Step Ten
Pin up the sides of the shirt and sleeve and stitch each side closed with one seam, from sleeve end to bottom of shirt. Finish with a zig-zag edge.

Step Eleven
Turn the bottom edge of the shirt up 1/4th of an inch and press in place.

Roll it another 1/4″, pin it and sew to create the bottom hem. Then get ready, because next comes the difficult stuff.

Step Twelve
Run a zig-zag stitch down one side of each of the two cuff pieces. Then take them to the ironing board, fold the short sides in 1/4″ and press.

Putting the cuff to the inside of the sleeve so right sides of the fabric are together, pin the raw edge of the cuff to the edge of the sleeve end, making sure the folded end of the cuff reaches the end of the lap plackets. The sleeve will be larger than the cuff at this point, so pin the ends and leave the middle loose. Begin placing pins to anchor the sleeve to the cuff from the lap, moving toward the bottom of the sleeve where the seam is located. It is important to move this direction.

Use a ruler or sewing gauge to place a pin one and a half inches from the seam in the bottom of the sleeve on the side of the sleeve opposite the lap.

Gather the extra fabric on the other side of this pin, where the sleeve is still loose and does not fit to the cuff, and fold it over the pin to create a pleat. Then pin the pleat in place.

Sewing slowly, sew the cuff to the sleeve. I know it’s tempting, but DO NOT sew over the top of the pins with a sewing machine. It’s an excellent way to break pins, needles, or your entire sewing machine. Once sewn, unfold the cuff from the inside of the sleeve.

Step Thirteen
Fold the cuff in half, putting the zig-zagged edge to the inside of the sleeve. Make sure it overlaps the seam where the cuff was attached.

From the right side of the sleeve/cuff, stitch the folded cuff to replicate top stitching. Turn the cuff at each corner to stitch along all four edges.

Step Fourteen
Pin the two pieces of the collar together. Sew the sides and top, leaving the bottom edge open.

Clip the top corners at an angle to remove bulk.

Turn collar right side out and press. While at the ironing board, turn the bottom edge of the collar  1/4″ to the inside and press.

 

Step Fifteen
Unfold the bottom edge of the collar and pin one side of it to the back of the shirt.

From the collar side, sew the collar to the shirt, leaving the collar open.
Once stitched, flip the collar upright and pin it into place, covering the raw edge as shown.

 Sew it down and add top stitching to the edges of the collar.

Step Sixteen
Zig-zag all the way around the edges of the pocket piece, then fold the edges over by 1/4″ and press.

Sew the top edge of the pocket down.

Pin the pocket to the front of the shirt and sew the sides and bottom, leaving the top open to make it a functional pocket.

Step Seventeen
The finishing touches! Add buttons or snaps to the front of the shirt and the cuffs.
Then sit back and pat yourself on the back, because the shirt is done!

Although it was my first pattern, it’s not a great one for beginners, so if you’ve made it this far, you’ve done great. If you think it’s beyond your skill, though, don’t feel bad! Sewing is a challenge, especially in doll scale.

For everyone who isn’t comfortable holding a needle and thread, have a look at The Dollypop Sweet Shoppe on Etsy, where I keep dolly dress shirts stocked in both EID and SID sizes.
Happy crafting!

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